Dado and molding head capability: the power and mass of these machines supports deep dado cuts and custom molding heads, though most people don't use a table saw to run molding profiles these days, and most dado cuts are fairly shallow.Quieter operation: the cabinet saw enclosed base and great mass result in a quieter and more pleasant work environment.I would only try this with models that have stout steel front and back rails (read: not a Unifence). This reduces their required storage footprint. Small shop advantage: cabinet saws don't require supplemental legs with some 30" fence models.Cabinet saws do it somewhat more smoothly and easily because of their more rigid base frames and sides. Positive blade settings: both saw types lock blade height and angle settings with authority.Dust collection: cabinet saw enclosed bases make dust collection much more efficient.Stability: cabinet saws have the mass to remain solidly in place while handling very heavy sheet goods and workpieces.Outfeed tables and accessories: unobstructed side conditions and hefty components make for convenient attachment of outfeed surfaces, sliding tables, and other accessories.There is no danger of workpieces jamming in the belt. Protected drive belts: the motor and belts are fully enclosed within the base.The difference is minor both saw types have tight runout specifications and comparatively rigid components. Lower vibration and more rigid blade mounting: cuts may be slightly smoother in some situations.It is difficult, for example, to tune the alignment of a contractor saw miter slot as accurately as a cabinet saw miter slot. The trunnion assembly and tabletop are connected separately to the frame, which means that major service access and fine adjustments are more convenient and precise. Major maintenance access: cabinet saws are built around a husky main frame.Sometimes you need 3 horsepower or more to keep the blade at speed under appropriate feed rate forces. Fewer burned cuts: burned cut faces, assuming that the saw and fence are properly tuned, are the result of slow feed rates in resinous or sugary woods.
Plenty of power for any task: motors in these saws are rated at 3 or 5 horsepower, which is enough to handle any wood up to full cutting depth (typically 3 1/8" for either kind of saw).Motor serviceability: if ever required, the motor can be easily and inexpensively replaced.Mild kickback: no one enjoys kickbacks, but contractor saws do them with somewhat less force and speed.I use spray products with extension tubes to get into tight spots. Minor maintenance access: periodic lubrication of trunnions and worm gear assemblies (the major exposed moving parts) is easily accomplished by reaching in the bottom or back of the table saw.Portability: two adults can lift a contractor saw into a truck bed with relative ease, which can be important for work out of the shop.Unless you are handy with electrical work, cabinet saws require an expensive visit by a licensed electrician. They can be easily moved and operated elsewhere. Normal power requirements: contractor saws plug into typical 120 volt, 15 amp outlets.Plenty of power for most tasks: motors in these saws are rated at 1 1/2 horsepower, which is enough for work in most wood species up to 2" thick.Lower cost: current models sell for about 0 (U.S.) with a good fence.My intent is to state differences in a non-biased manner, but an attempt has been made to order the items by probable importance. The good taste of money saved turns bitter when your projects take longer and turn out poorly. Cheaper saws make rough cuts, wear out quickly, don't hold their adjustments, and are more prone to dangerous kickbacks. I would not consider anything less than the contractor saws mentioned above. Either saw type will last outlast its owner with reasonable care, and either can be bought with a high quality fence. Durability and fence quality are generally not factors. Test-drive candidate saws a few cuts mean more than a month of junk mail. If my work and budget called for a cabinet saw, I would consider the Jet Xacta, Powermatic 66, and Delta Unisaw. If buying a contractor saw, I would consider Delta and Jet offerings by that same name. The basic choice is between a contractor saw and a cabinet saw.Ī few initial notes are in order. A table saw purchase should be made carefully to avoid getting either a machine that doesn't meet shop needs, or one that leaves too little money for other important tools. No other tool does so many things with such clean results in so little time. Table saws have occupied the central position in most woodworking shops since the development of modern designs after World War II. Choosing a Tablesaw - Cabinet or Contractor ?